I am not sure that I can do justice to our Italian vacation in this blog post. Mike and I celebrated our 50th birthdays with a trip to Rome, Florence, and other Tuscan and Umbrian towns. We have done lots of travel during our time 'over the pond' but this was the first real vacation because Mike had the whole week off.
Rome was our first stop and I am glad we had three full days and nights to explore. Our (tiny) hotel,
Hotel Julia, was located very close to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps so it became a nightly ritual to walk to the fountain after a late dinner and toss another coin in. The last time I did that I was just 12 years old. I guess it's true that you will return to Rome if you toss in your coin and wish hard enough! Walking past all the beautiful sights and well lit Piazza's at night was a treat. We took a guided tour of the Colosseum, mostly to bypass the line. We also took a small guided tour of Vatican City, which was absolutely the way to go. Not only did we bypass the line, but our guide was an adorable graduate from St. Mary's of the Woods in Indiana. She knew her history inside and out and really brought the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica and the other Vatican churches to life for us. We have now touched all of the holy doors for what it's worth - it was a pilgrimage of sorts! We marveled at how ancient buildings, like the Pantheon, were built to such a grand scale. If I felt out of shape before this trip, Rome started to kick me back into gear because we walked everywhere. We were afraid of missing something if we took the underground, so we roamed through all the neighborhoods on our way to the landmarks on our list. It was a great way to get a feel for the city and the people.
Next stop, Florence. I really LOVE Florence! What a beautiful city, full of incredible art and, most notably in my mind, beautiful sculptures. Our hotel, Hotel Botticelli, was absolutely amazing. It felt like a palace after our room in Rome. The location was perfect, near San Lorenzo and easy walking distance to the museums, the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and most of the must-see sights. Upon arrival, I was immediately caught up in the market around San Lorenzo. This was the place to shop for leather items - coats, purses, wallets, belts, shoes. I had to remind myself that anything I bought had to be added to our EIGHT pieces of luggage that have to go home with us from England. I was pleasantly surprised that Mike popped for a beautiful leather jacket for my birthday - he's a keeper!
We spent our first day in Florence exploring all of the landmarks on our own, shopping in the markets and in the lovely shops throughout the city and eating delicious meals. The next day we once again joined a guided tour of the museums. We started at Accademia where, of course, the highlight was Michelangelo's David. It was fascinating to see a collection of unfinished statues by Michelangelo and get a sense of how the figures emerged from the stone they are carved from - almost as if they are inside trying to break free. We were so taken with the sculpture that we stopped into the Bargello Museum, known for its collection of sculpture, before heading to the Uffizi for our afternoon tour. Our guide at the Uffizzi, and also in Rome at the Vatican Museum, gave us a sense of how the Renaissance changed the thinking of the time and how that is reflected in the art from that period. The Uffizi was organized in a way that showed the progression from the flat, dimensionless religious figures created to conform to the rules and expectations of the church at that time to the more compassionate and lifelike figures that followed. It was interesting to hear about who commissioned the various works and what was going on at that time.
On day three we hopped on a city bus and headed to the hill town of Fiesole to do some hiking and explore the landmarks located here. The views were absolutely amazing. It was a clear fall day and you could see fires burning all over the Tuscan landscape below. We weren't sure why - clearing the fallen leaves? I wondered if it had something to do with the vineyards. Who knows. Our favorite spot for dinner in Florence turned out to be a restaurant called Za Za. We sampled traditional Tuscan food and my favorite is a soup called Ribollita. It is a blend of roasted vegetables thickened with bread - DELICIOUS.
From Florence, we picked up a rental car to explore Tuscany on our own for a few days. After a few hangups, like no working sat nav in the car, we were on our way with the map in hand. Mike was a trouper and we found our way to San Gimignano. We had lunch on the steps outside the Collegiata, one of the noteworthy churches in this town, and climbed the Palace Tower for a spectacular view of the Tuscan countryside and a birdseye view of the medieval architecture of San Gimignano. San Gimignano is known for the 14 medieval towers still standing and visible for miles around as you approach the town.
From here it was a short hop to Siena and we once again were delighted with our hotel choice. It overlooked the countryside and had a beautiful private garden in the back. Unfortunately, it was a bit cold for breakfast on the patio. Our room was an attic room and it was huge. We had a dormer window with a little set of steps so you could climb up and peek out at the town from this rooftop perch. We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant, Antica Osteria da Divo, and made an evening of it. Starting with appetizers, we worked our way through the various courses to dessert. This was the actual day of my 50th birthday, after all! In Siena, we bought an all-inclusive pass to the museums, the Duomo, the Crypts, etc. We hit half of them the first day and the rest the following morning. Once again, you could climb the medieval tower for a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. I was beginning to feel that I had been working out on a Stairmaster for several days - this is a good thing!
From Siena, we made our way to the Umbrian town of Orvieto by way of Montalcino. Our main draw to Montalcino was the fact that it was the central area where the Brunello wine is made. Brunello di Montalcino is widely held to be the best wine in Italy so, of course, we wanted to visit the wineries and taste the wine. After exploring the town, another beautiful walled town on a hilltop, we took off for the Brunello Museum only to find it closed. Instead, we visited a nearly deserted nearby winery, took a look around and then headed to the tasting room for a sample. It is interesting to note that not all Brunello is created equally. Apparently, to be considered Brunello di Montalcino, you have to meet certain standards in terms of how the wine is produced and how long it is aged.
Next stop is Orvieto and this ended up being the perfect way to bring our wonderful week to a close. As we approached the town, we crested a hill and there in the valley was a sweeping landscape with a giant rock in the distance that had a beautiful old city perched right on top of it. It took our breath away and we had to pull off the road for pictures (although the pictures don't do it justice). Our hotel was called
Agriturismo Cioccoleta and our hosts were a charming young couple named Angela and Allesandro. This was their home and they welcomed us like dear friends. It was absolutely charming. The rooms were airy and light and shared a communal living room and loft for relaxing and soaking in the amazing vineyards all around the property. It was all by itself in the countryside and Mike and I enjoyed a delightful walk through the vineyards after breakfast in the morning. Speaking of breakfast, Angela made the most delicious homemade cakes to start off the day. I should have insisted on the recipes! Reluctantly we left to go explore Orvieto before heading to Rome for our flight in the afternoon. I would definitely stay here again! Orvieto did not disappoint. Once again, I got a day worth of Stairmaster climbing. Incredible views, great shopping, a beautiful Duomo, museums...all spectacular.
We touched just the tip of the iceberg during our trip to Italy and it did make us want to return for more down the road. We loved our pace
and the places we took the time to explore. All good things must end and this time I am really looking forward because we are heading home to Arizona! It is true that home is where the heart is and my heart is with my family and friends. Our experiences during our time in England have been amazing and Mike has really enjoyed the people he works with here. They couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming to us. Hopefully, we will see them again, maybe in Arizona next time!
