Turning 50 - Celebrating in Italy Works for Me!

I am not sure that I can do justice to our Italian vacation in this blog post. Mike and I celebrated our 50th birthdays with a trip to Rome, Florence, and other Tuscan and Umbrian towns. We have done lots of travel during our time 'over the pond' but this was the first real vacation because Mike had the whole week off.

Rome was our first stop and I am glad we had three full days and nights to explore. Our (tiny) hotel, Hotel Julia, was located very close to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps so it became a nightly ritual to walk to the fountain after a late dinner and toss another coin in. The last time I did that I was just 12 years old. I guess it's true that you will return to Rome if you toss in your coin and wish hard enough! Walking past all the beautiful sights and well lit Piazza's at night was a treat. We took a guided tour of the Colosseum, mostly to bypass the line. We also took a small guided tour of Vatican City, which was absolutely the way to go. Not only did we bypass the line, but our guide was an adorable graduate from St. Mary's of the Woods in Indiana. She knew her history inside and out and really brought the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica and the other Vatican churches to life for us. We have now touched all of the holy doors for what it's worth - it was a pilgrimage of sorts! We marveled at how ancient buildings, like the Pantheon, were built to such a grand scale. If I felt out of shape before this trip, Rome started to kick me back into gear because we walked everywhere. We were afraid of missing something if we took the underground, so we roamed through all the neighborhoods on our way to the landmarks on our list. It was a great way to get a feel for the city and the people.

Next stop, Florence. I really LOVE Florence! What a beautiful city, full of incredible art and, most notably in my mind, beautiful sculptures. Our hotel, Hotel Botticelli, was absolutely amazing. It felt like a palace after our room in Rome. The location was perfect, near San Lorenzo and easy walking distance to the museums, the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and most of the must-see sights. Upon arrival, I was immediately caught up in the market around San Lorenzo. This was the place to shop for leather items - coats, purses, wallets, belts, shoes. I had to remind myself that anything I bought had to be added to our EIGHT pieces of luggage that have to go home with us from England. I was pleasantly surprised that Mike popped for a beautiful leather jacket for my birthday - he's a keeper!

We spent our first day in Florence exploring all of the landmarks on our own, shopping in the markets and in the lovely shops throughout the city and eating delicious meals. The next day we once again joined a guided tour of the museums. We started at Accademia where, of course, the highlight was Michelangelo's David. It was fascinating to see a collection of unfinished statues by Michelangelo and get a sense of how the figures emerged from the stone they are carved from - almost as if they are inside trying to break free. We were so taken with the sculpture that we stopped into the Bargello Museum, known for its collection of sculpture, before heading to the Uffizi for our afternoon tour. Our guide at the Uffizzi, and also in Rome at the Vatican Museum, gave us a sense of how the Renaissance changed the thinking of the time and how that is reflected in the art from that period. The Uffizi was organized in a way that showed the progression from the flat, dimensionless religious figures created to conform to the rules and expectations of the church at that time to the more compassionate and lifelike figures that followed. It was interesting to hear about who commissioned the various works and what was going on at that time.

On day three we hopped on a city bus and headed to the hill town of Fiesole to do some hiking and explore the landmarks located here. The views were absolutely amazing. It was a clear fall day and you could see fires burning all over the Tuscan landscape below. We weren't sure why - clearing the fallen leaves? I wondered if it had something to do with the vineyards. Who knows. Our favorite spot for dinner in Florence turned out to be a restaurant called Za Za. We sampled traditional Tuscan food and my favorite is a soup called Ribollita. It is a blend of roasted vegetables thickened with bread - DELICIOUS.

From Florence, we picked up a rental car to explore Tuscany on our own for a few days. After a few hangups, like no working sat nav in the car, we were on our way with the map in hand. Mike was a trouper and we found our way to San Gimignano. We had lunch on the steps outside the Collegiata, one of the noteworthy churches in this town, and climbed the Palace Tower for a spectacular view of the Tuscan countryside and a birdseye view of the medieval architecture of San Gimignano. San Gimignano is known for the 14 medieval towers still standing and visible for miles around as you approach the town.

From here it was a short hop to Siena and we once again were delighted with our hotel choice. It overlooked the countryside and had a beautiful private garden in the back. Unfortunately, it was a bit cold for breakfast on the patio. Our room was an attic room and it was huge. We had a dormer window with a little set of steps so you could climb up and peek out at the town from this rooftop perch. We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant, Antica Osteria da Divo, and made an evening of it. Starting with appetizers, we worked our way through the various courses to dessert. This was the actual day of my 50th birthday, after all! In Siena, we bought an all-inclusive pass to the museums, the Duomo, the Crypts, etc. We hit half of them the first day and the rest the following morning. Once again, you could climb the medieval tower for a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. I was beginning to feel that I had been working out on a Stairmaster for several days - this is a good thing!

From Siena, we made our way to the Umbrian town of Orvieto by way of Montalcino. Our main draw to Montalcino was the fact that it was the central area where the Brunello wine is made. Brunello di Montalcino is widely held to be the best wine in Italy so, of course, we wanted to visit the wineries and taste the wine. After exploring the town, another beautiful walled town on a hilltop, we took off for the Brunello Museum only to find it closed. Instead, we visited a nearly deserted nearby winery, took a look around and then headed to the tasting room for a sample. It is interesting to note that not all Brunello is created equally. Apparently, to be considered Brunello di Montalcino, you have to meet certain standards in terms of how the wine is produced and how long it is aged.

Next stop is Orvieto and this ended up being the perfect way to bring our wonderful week to a close. As we approached the town, we crested a hill and there in the valley was a sweeping landscape with a giant rock in the distance that had a beautiful old city perched right on top of it. It took our breath away and we had to pull off the road for pictures (although the pictures don't do it justice). Our hotel was called Agriturismo Cioccoleta and our hosts were a charming young couple named Angela and Allesandro. This was their home and they welcomed us like dear friends. It was absolutely charming. The rooms were airy and light and shared a communal living room and loft for relaxing and soaking in the amazing vineyards all around the property. It was all by itself in the countryside and Mike and I enjoyed a delightful walk through the vineyards after breakfast in the morning. Speaking of breakfast, Angela made the most delicious homemade cakes to start off the day. I should have insisted on the recipes! Reluctantly we left to go explore Orvieto before heading to Rome for our flight in the afternoon. I would definitely stay here again! Orvieto did not disappoint. Once again, I got a day worth of Stairmaster climbing. Incredible views, great shopping, a beautiful Duomo, museums...all spectacular.

We touched just the tip of the iceberg during our trip to Italy and it did make us want to return for more down the road. We loved our pace

and the places we took the time to explore. All good things must end and this time I am really looking forward because we are heading home to Arizona! It is true that home is where the heart is and my heart is with my family and friends. Our experiences during our time in England have been amazing and Mike has really enjoyed the people he works with here. They couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming to us. Hopefully, we will see them again, maybe in Arizona next time!

Amy Brought the Sunshine!

I have been anxiously waiting for Amy to come to visit us in England - a sight for sore eyes! I miss my family. I had her all to myself for a day and we used the time to catch up on all of her travels and the engagement story! She and Rick have been exchanging ideas about where and when they want to be married. It was fun to hear all of the options and weigh the pros and cons of each. It looks like the wedding will be September 2011 if they can arrange a venue then.

On the way home from the airport I did another stop at Windsor Castle. It is a nice "welcome to England" stop and breaks up the drive home after a long flight. Amy slept for 13 hours the first night so she must have needed the rest after supervising the movers packing her life away for the move to New York City! We finally set out around noon and visited the nearby medieval market town of Marlborough for lunch at Polly's Tea House. From there it was back to the airport to get Amy's friend, Court.

Court flew all the way from LA to spend time with Amy in London and it was fun to see her again! These girls have so much going on and have a great passion for life. Court is a registered dietician working at least two jobs and also getting her own business going in parallel. Amy starts work at a law firm, Fitzpatrick, in New York City on October 12 and was excited to get going on that. She visited her colleagues on her way through New York to London and saw that she already has an office with her name on the door - sweet!

Before they went to London they stayed with me for a couple nights and one glorious day. I took them to Castle Combe (the ideal wedding venue if you ask me) and then to Bath. It was a beautiful fall day and the leaves were changing so it was nice to be in the countryside. We finished the day at our favorite pub, Three Crowns. Amy and Court were adventurous and ordered a combination plate of kangaroo, ostrich, and crocodile. They also ate blue marlin. The menu at this place is extensive and it is always packed - a perfect send-off dinner before they hopped the train for London in the morning.

Mike and I went into the city on Saturday to meet them, since he hadn't been home all week to see Amy. We did some touring around the major sights and later met for dinner at Piccolino. This restaurant is tucked away on Heddon Street just off of Regent Street. It is a pedestrian road lined with restaurants and bars. We sat outside under a heater and it was delightful. Great music, twinkling lights, amazing food and the best company ever! At the end of the road was the Ice Bar that we have heard so much about, but we discovered that they only let in 30 at a time. You have to book your spot in advance so we had to settle for pictures by the door!

Both girls made it to their respective flights the next day and Amy is starting her new job this morning. I am excited for her. I know she misses Rick so much already - they will have lots of flights back and forth until they land in the same city!

Thanks for visiting me, baby. I miss you and can't wait to see you guys at Thanksgiving!

Cote d'Azur...A Warm, Sunny Change from England

I am definitely losing steam and falling behind on this travel blog. However, I am determined to finish out the month and at least capture our big trips!

Last week Mike had business in Nice, France for 9 days. I went along and enjoyed the lovely sunshine and beach weather for a change. I explored Vieille Ville (Old Town) while Mike sat in a conference room all day. I felt a tiny bit guilty but I got over it quickly and had a fabulous time! I love the narrow, cobbled streets filled with every kind of shop and eventually found myself in front of the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate. This beautiful old Cathedral was in the process of being adorned with fresh flowers for an event and smelled heavenly inside. Following my nose, I found my way to the flower market in the Cours Saleya and continued to wander this market area past wonderfully scented soaps, beautiful fresh produce, local art, fish right out of the ocean and more. I bought a few soaps and some berries before heading out onto the Promenade des Anglais to take in the views and put my feet in the ocean for a bit.

The challenge of getting into the ocean is that the rocks hurt my feet! The water is warm and the shale beach certainly makes for a cleaner beach experience (no sand in all the wrong places) but I still prefer softer sand. Regardless, it felt good to sit down, rest my feet and do some people watching before continuing to explore. I noticed a hill jutting out over the ocean directly west of Old Nice and saw people climbing a steep, long staircase to get up there. I decided that was my next stop and was rewarded with see forever views of the Mediterranean, Old Nice and the Port of Nice with its spectacular yachts and cruise ships. It turns out that a castle stood on this spot until the early 1700s and now it is called Parc du Chateau. There are green spaces, playgrounds, walking trails, a beautiful waterfall, Roman Ruins and cemeteries in the area now. I found a vendor selling baguettes with ham and cheese and ate my lunch on a rock overlooking the sea - heaven! I shopped my way back through town before heading back to our hotel to meet Mike later in the day. We had a fabulous french dinner at a restaurant right on the water to cap off a perfect day!

Mike took Friday off and we spent the weekend traveling from Italy to Cannes along the Cote d'Azur. My favorite town was Antibes. This place was charming, had great shopping, fabulous beaches, breathtaking sea walks and, of course, the Picasso Museum. Further along, we found Cannes to be teaming with people despite the fact that it was not film festival season. We spend quite a bit of time walking the harbor looking at the incredible yachts from all over the world. In contrast, we spent some time in Menton, close to Italy, and found the pace to be slower and less glamorous but no less charming. The beaches here are supposed to be a bit warmer but we could not tell the difference. On our way back from Menton we rented bicycles in Nice and rode along the Promenade des Anglais to St. Laurant du Var. It was another beautiful day and it felt good to ride along the sea and soak up the sunshine.

We learned that the first Sunday of every month is free at all museums in France so we took the opportunity to visit the Musee des Beaux-Arts, the Palais Massena and the Musee Chagall. I discovered a lot about Marc Chagall that I didn't know about his work and was really drawn in by it. He seems to have a passion for people and this particular collection displays biblical themes from the Old Testament using incredibly vibrant colors.

We enjoyed dinner with Mike's colleague and his girlfriend on Sunday night. They are from Paris and were able to find a local restaurant with regional cuisine that they helped us understand and order - yum! Monday I was on the first plane home to prepare for Amy's visit the next day, while Mike was headed to another week of meetings. Time is flying by and we will be heading home before we know it...