Turkish Rugs Anyone?



After several months away from family and friends, we were thrilled to meet good friends in Istanbul last weekend. We met up with Joe and Lindsey at Heathrow for the flight to Istanbul where John and Lynette were waiting (or rather, sleeping). It was fantastic to catch up over breakfast on everyone's busy summers and hear about their families.

The breakfast room of our hotel was our first pleasant surprise. It was on the top floor surrounded by windows and a nice patio with a panoramic view of the Marmara Sea. We decided to familiarize ourselves with the area by walking through Sultanahmet. Shopping and markets were everywhere and the locals made sure that you knew about their shop as you walked by. We fell for a nice guy that somehow managed to reroute us to a leather outlet before realizing that we were not going to purchase anything!

As we walked through the area we passed the Hagia Sophia museum and the Blue Mosque before heading over to the Grand Bazaar. Textiles were sold in virtually every shop and I did haggle for some scarves. I thought I did well and was pleased with my price but John was pretty convinced that I could have done better! I have to say that, in my opinion, the Grand Bazaar was overwhelming. I find it hard to even browse when there is always someone at your side looking for the best way to take your money. After a delicious wrap that was similar to a gyro, we wandered over to the Spice Bazaar. Here we learned about the well-known apple tea and sampled others including pomegranate tea. I bought both! We also sampled a variety of Turkish Delight (candy) and purchased some nuts for our evening happy hour. Not really a cook, I steered clear of purchasing spices since I wouldn't even know how to best use them but piles of the colorful spices were everywhere.

Onward over the Galata Bridge to the Galata Tower. By the time we climbed up this hill, it was hot and our feet were tired. Joe spotted a rooftop patio that turned out to be the perfect spot to cool off with a beer and our recently purchased nuts. We had a fantastic view from here - almost as high as the tower itself. You know I am a bit claustrophobic so getting across the water in the bridge-tunnel made me feel like all 18 million people of Istanbul must be trying to cross with us - so crowded! Another tip, don't expect to find very many public restrooms so lay off the water ;)

It was a hot day and we were all tempted by the ice cream vendors but couldn't get past the fact that they were swinging it around like pizza dough to get your attention and it didn't melt or fall apart. It looked more like cold taffy. Instead, we shopped our way back to the hotel for a shower before our happy hour on the patio and dinner at a nearby Turkish restaurant. Joe came close to purchasing a Kilim Carpet for their dining room but in the end, it wasn't meant to be.

Sunday we toured the Topkapi Palace with its many courtyards and collections. I particularly enjoyed the imperial costumes and the treasury housing the many jeweled treasures of the Sultans including an 86-carat diamond. We also toured the palace Harem, the residence of the Sultan's wives, concubines, and children. At one time there were 1,000 concubines in the Harem competing for the Sultan's favor. They were guarded by black slave eunuchs. The only other men permitted to enter were the sultan and his sons. The audio tour gave us a glimpse of life in the Harem.

After lunch, we also visited the Hagia Sophia Museum. It was fascinating to discover the history of this building that was once a Christian Church inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537. The beautiful Byzantine mosaics were covered over when the Ottomans converted it into a mosque in the 15th century but some survived and can be viewed throughout. It is an interesting contrast to see the Christian elements together with the Muslim features.

The heat took its toll and we headed under the canopy of a sidewalk cafe for refreshments. In the process, the troops got curious about the water pipes and we ended up with an apple-flavored water pipe at our table. Everyone agreed that there wasn't much to it but it was fun watching them blow the steam out of their nose!

Our last stop of the day was the famous Blue Mosque. Mike picked up a new friend as we walked in that proceeded to escort him through the entire process in the hopes that he would visit his carpet shop in return. We all know how that ended for him - no carpet sale! We had to rush through this visit because the prayers were about to begin and all non-muslims had to be out. We took off our shoes, covered our heads and did a quick walkthrough of the main space. I would have like to take more time to understand more about Islam. We did notice that the mosques throughout the city had a wall of faucets and stone seats outside where the men would perform their cleansing ritual before prayers. The call to prayer could be heard 5 times a day.

Dinner on Sunday night was spectacular! As we wandered the neighborhood near our hotel, Joe asked for a recommendation and it was spot on. You would never find it on your own because we didn't walk through the best area to get there but suddenly we found ourselves on a beautiful patio in a brick courtyard with lovely tables, lights, and service. We ordered a variety of starters followed by several different kinds of grilled fish - delicious! The weather was perfect and it was so nice to share this with fantastic friends.

Monday was our last full day and we all agreed that it was time for a cruise up the Bosphorus. While waiting for the boat tour to begin we toured the Basilica Cistern, a large cavern holding water and supported by 336 columns. Two of the columns sit on Medusa head bases that are supposed to be a shrine to the water nymphs. The Bosphorus is the straight that separates Istanbul between Asia and Europe. It is the only city in the world that is situated across two continents. The Bosphorus connects the Marmara Sea with the Black Sea making it an important passage. We took a small tour boat that went up the European side pointing out important palaces, resort locations, and high-end villages. We passed under two intercontinental bridges before turning around and returning along the Asian side with its beautiful and EXPENSIVE waterfront homes, many in the Ottoman style. The Ottomans had large families and the homes were made of wood which was best for the damp weather and frequent earthquakes. There was also an important palace on the Asian side but it was being renovated and was covered from view. The weather on the Asian side was cooler. Our tour up the Bosphorus also included a bus ride to the Golden Horn for a view of the city. Unfortunately, I was singled out at the lookout spot by a huge pigeon. He left me a present right on my shoulder and the experience was very disturbing - yuk!! I was told that Turks are very superstitious and believed that this was a sign of good luck. They encouraged me to buy a lottery ticket...I guess there is a silver lining with every load of crap that comes your way.

We wrapped up our last night in Istanbul with another good Turkish dinner and plenty of wine. Joe, Lindsey, Lynette, and John were headed to Budapest in the morning and we were heading back to London. Honestly, I was as happy to see them as I was to see Istanbul. I realize what an amazing gift it is to have a wonderful family and good friends to go through life with and look forward to heading home at the end of October to reconnect with everyone! 

Quick trip through Normandy

We picked up a rental car by our hotel in Paris and programmed our GPS for Rouen via Giverny. I love Claude Monet and really enjoyed seeing the gardens that inspired so many of his paintings. We tried to capture the essence of the weeping willow trees, lily pads and bridges that are reflected in his paintings with our little canon camera but somehow I think we lost something in translation! We spent some time in the museum and also toured Claude Monet's house before continuing on down the road to Rouen.

Rouen is the capital of northern Normandy. The Notre Dame Cathedral at the center of town is extremely old with origins dating back as early as the 4th century. This huge gothic cathedral has been destroyed and rebuilt over the years due to damage from wars, among other things. It looks like a giant drippy sandcastle and has been painted many times by Claude Monet.

Our hotel in Rouen was an experiment in saving money. On the plus side, it looked out on the cathedral and had a decent breakfast. On the minus side, the bells rang several times per hour and the only furnishings were a wobbly small desk with a small, straight back chair and the bed. It was spartan, but clean and worked for one night. We walked from the hotel to the Place du Vieux Marche, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Along the way, we walked down a charming street lined with shopping, and under an arch supporting an astronomical clock. It is not quite as complex as the one in Prague but very unique.

To round out our exploration of Rouen we walked the other direction from the Cathedral to an area called Place Saint-Mark. This is a pedestrian area with lots of restaurants. We found a nice spot with a great patio and sat down with a bottle of wine to enjoy the evening. We just happened to be seated right next to a couple of really nice guys from England that struck up a conversation with us. Given that we have been a bit socially deprived over here, we really enjoyed the interaction and got lots of good tips for making the most of our last month in England!

From Rouen, we set our sites on Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. This turned out to be a really moving experience for me. We spent lots of time in the exhibit before wandering through the cemetery, pausing at the memorials. It is hard to imagine the courage it took those soldier to get off those boats. It is also amazing the amount of training and preparation that went into this important effort to liberate France and ultimately the rest of Europe. I can't even fathom what a different world this would be without that united effort by so many.

We also visited Arromanches les Bains at Gold Beach and went through the exhibit that details the extremely elaborate floating military bases created there. It was crazy how much engineering went into designing breakwaters to create a harbor that could supply the Allied war effort in France. This harbor was built in England, hidden in the English channel and then pulled across the water to be reassembled at Gold Beach. Originally there were to be two such harbors but one was severely damaged by storms on the journey to France. Supply ships with items as big as tanks arrived daily to dock with this floating base and unload everything needed to sustain the troops. The supplies were carried to shore using floating bridges as well as amphibious craft. Winston Churchill dreamt this up and it was apparently the key to success in Normandy.

Another must-see town in the northern Normandy region is Bayeux, famous for its historic tapestry that tells the story of the Norman conquest of England. It is actually an embroidered cloth that is 1 1/2 feet tall and about 224 feet long. This was a fun way to pick up a history lesson! We enjoyed the charming main street for shopping, had a quick look around the romanesque cathedral and stopped for lunch at an outdoor cafe before hitting the road again.

Getting back to the airport on Sunday night was an experience. Our trusty GPS definitely didn't choose to use the freeways and we ended up on very small roads that backed up in many of the small towns along the way. We were wondering if we would make it in time for our flight, but all's well that ends well. We are home now. Lots of driving but a good experience...

Paris and some BIG NEWS!!!

Having been to Paris before, I did not anticipate the powerful reaction I would have to seeing it again upon arrival. This time I arrived at night in the back of a taxi and, as we came into view of all the recognizable landmarks, I was awestruck by the beauty of the well-lit city. On the freeway coming from Charles de Gaulle airport, I caught a glimpse of Sacre Coeur lit up on the hill at Montmartre. It was like a beacon watching over the city. As we wound our way through the narrow streets in search of the hotel, the cab driver had to laugh at me in the back of the taxi as I made appreciative gestures and sounds everywhere we went...Eiffel Tower, Arch de Triomphe, Charles de Gaulle l'Etoile, Champs-Elysees, the many bridges along the Seine...I couldn't wait to get out and explore the next day!

I have to pause for a minute to say that getting to Paris did not go exactly as planned. Mike made it all the way to Heathrow (over an hour from our flat) and realized as we parked that he was missing his briefcase containing his laptop and passport! He had grabbed the trash and, with his hands full, had not noticed that he was missing a bag. As it turned out, I went on ahead to Paris and he had to reschedule for the first flight out the next morning and go straight to his meetings. He made it with no time to spare and all is well but he is NOT happy with himself. I cannot point a finger here because I know I have left behind a purse on occasion when my hands are full!

My plan had been to spend the day in the Louvre but it was such a beautiful day that I couldn't bear to be indoors. Instead, I took the metro to the center of Paris and began a walking tour that took me by the Opera house, past some great shops, to the Place de l'Etoile for a view down the Champs-Elysees. From there I entered the Garden of the Tuileries and pulled up a reclining chair by the fountain to watch the world go by for a while. The Tuileries Garden took me right up to the Louvre for some pictures and a stroll through the courtyards before exiting at the other end.

Next stop, Sainte-Chapelle for a look at the beautiful windows and then on past Notre Dame before crossing the river again to walk past The Hotel deVille, housing the administration buildings of Paris. Now my feet hurt so it was time to do some shopping with a purpose - socks! With that settled, the next order of business was food. By the time I emerged from the shopping centre, my sunshine was gone and I continued on in the rain, but just for a while. From the Palais Royal, I hopped on a city bus that took me north to Montmartre to see Sacre Coeur up close and appreciate the view of Paris from up there. After snapping lots of pictures and working my way down the hill through crowds of people, I found the nearest metro stop and called it a day.

Time to meet Mike at the hotel and get dinner. And what a dinner it turned out to be! Right as our main course was being served my cell phone rang. Clearly, I don't get many calls over here on my cell phone so I knew it was one of the kids and picked up right away. It was Amy and Rick with the news that he had proposed to her - sooooo exciting!! Rick proposed to Amy in a vineyard they discovered between San Sebastian and Barcelona in Spain - how romantic! Apparently he had planned to propose in Venice on a gondola ride but he couldn't wait - even more romantic! He dropped to his knee twice and the second time the proposal followed. I guess the first time Amy was distracted with the scenery and threw off his timing so he pretended to be posing for a picture instead - love it! I asked for a picture of the ring and it is a beauty! He did a great job and we are excited to welcome him into our family.

There was no sleeping for me that night! Megan called and then posted her congratulations to facebook. I was amazed at how fast the news spread. It was fun watching all the well wishes roll in...so many wonderful friends and relatives out there giving love and support!

Swindon is Still Unfolding Some Surprises...

This weekend we stayed close to home so it was a good opportunity to find out a little more about Swindon.

After a challenging spin class, we returned home to find that our flat had been evacuated in order to spray for moths. The bottom line: we needed to stay outside for the next two hours. It was fast approaching lunchtime and we were definitely still a bit soggy from the work out so we were happy to discover a new sandwich spot with outdoor seating called Gusto. After filling up on delicious and original paninis, we still had time to kill so we walked across the street to the Swindon Museum. Mike had been bugging me to go in this building since May so why not now? It was free and basically just contained some information about the history of the town along with a gallery of some artwork. The whole tour took maybe 30 minutes. Enough said.

After a quick shower, we got back to our original plan for the day and headed to Kelmscott Manor, the country home of William Morris. It is only about 15 or 20 minutes away and is situated near the river Thames. I enjoyed learning about the many interests of Morris; designer, craftsman, poet, etc. His company produced furniture, textiles, wallpapers and stained glass and his love of the countryside is reflected in his designs ad poetry. The manor house displays many tapestries and other works of art that Morris himself worked on. We wrapped up the afternoon with a stroll down the country lane to the river. Very peaceful.

Today we continued our Swindon education by heading to STEAM, the Museum of the Great Western Railway. Now this was more like it. Swindon's history and growth are directly tied to the development and success of the Great Western Railway. Many of the most advanced steam engines in the world were produced in Swindon and a whole town formed around this industry. The museum has collections of machinery, supplies, furnishings, models and more. There are also exhibits of the various workshops as well as finished steam engines and passenger cars that you can walk through. I have been shopping in the Swindon Brunel center but never realized who Brunel was. I learned that Brunel was actually a very forward-thinking engineer who was the driving force behind the Great Western Railway. This seems like a great place for families with lots of hands-on opportunities for kids and adults alike. There is a portion of the experience dedicated to the role women played in the GWR during the war. I was surprised to like this as much as I did!