Turning 50 - Celebrating in Italy Works for Me!

I am not sure that I can do justice to our Italian vacation in this blog post. Mike and I celebrated our 50th birthdays with a trip to Rome, Florence, and other Tuscan and Umbrian towns. We have done lots of travel during our time 'over the pond' but this was the first real vacation because Mike had the whole week off.

Rome was our first stop and I am glad we had three full days and nights to explore. Our (tiny) hotel, Hotel Julia, was located very close to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps so it became a nightly ritual to walk to the fountain after a late dinner and toss another coin in. The last time I did that I was just 12 years old. I guess it's true that you will return to Rome if you toss in your coin and wish hard enough! Walking past all the beautiful sights and well lit Piazza's at night was a treat. We took a guided tour of the Colosseum, mostly to bypass the line. We also took a small guided tour of Vatican City, which was absolutely the way to go. Not only did we bypass the line, but our guide was an adorable graduate from St. Mary's of the Woods in Indiana. She knew her history inside and out and really brought the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica and the other Vatican churches to life for us. We have now touched all of the holy doors for what it's worth - it was a pilgrimage of sorts! We marveled at how ancient buildings, like the Pantheon, were built to such a grand scale. If I felt out of shape before this trip, Rome started to kick me back into gear because we walked everywhere. We were afraid of missing something if we took the underground, so we roamed through all the neighborhoods on our way to the landmarks on our list. It was a great way to get a feel for the city and the people.

Next stop, Florence. I really LOVE Florence! What a beautiful city, full of incredible art and, most notably in my mind, beautiful sculptures. Our hotel, Hotel Botticelli, was absolutely amazing. It felt like a palace after our room in Rome. The location was perfect, near San Lorenzo and easy walking distance to the museums, the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and most of the must-see sights. Upon arrival, I was immediately caught up in the market around San Lorenzo. This was the place to shop for leather items - coats, purses, wallets, belts, shoes. I had to remind myself that anything I bought had to be added to our EIGHT pieces of luggage that have to go home with us from England. I was pleasantly surprised that Mike popped for a beautiful leather jacket for my birthday - he's a keeper!

We spent our first day in Florence exploring all of the landmarks on our own, shopping in the markets and in the lovely shops throughout the city and eating delicious meals. The next day we once again joined a guided tour of the museums. We started at Accademia where, of course, the highlight was Michelangelo's David. It was fascinating to see a collection of unfinished statues by Michelangelo and get a sense of how the figures emerged from the stone they are carved from - almost as if they are inside trying to break free. We were so taken with the sculpture that we stopped into the Bargello Museum, known for its collection of sculpture, before heading to the Uffizi for our afternoon tour. Our guide at the Uffizzi, and also in Rome at the Vatican Museum, gave us a sense of how the Renaissance changed the thinking of the time and how that is reflected in the art from that period. The Uffizi was organized in a way that showed the progression from the flat, dimensionless religious figures created to conform to the rules and expectations of the church at that time to the more compassionate and lifelike figures that followed. It was interesting to hear about who commissioned the various works and what was going on at that time.

On day three we hopped on a city bus and headed to the hill town of Fiesole to do some hiking and explore the landmarks located here. The views were absolutely amazing. It was a clear fall day and you could see fires burning all over the Tuscan landscape below. We weren't sure why - clearing the fallen leaves? I wondered if it had something to do with the vineyards. Who knows. Our favorite spot for dinner in Florence turned out to be a restaurant called Za Za. We sampled traditional Tuscan food and my favorite is a soup called Ribollita. It is a blend of roasted vegetables thickened with bread - DELICIOUS.

From Florence, we picked up a rental car to explore Tuscany on our own for a few days. After a few hangups, like no working sat nav in the car, we were on our way with the map in hand. Mike was a trouper and we found our way to San Gimignano. We had lunch on the steps outside the Collegiata, one of the noteworthy churches in this town, and climbed the Palace Tower for a spectacular view of the Tuscan countryside and a birdseye view of the medieval architecture of San Gimignano. San Gimignano is known for the 14 medieval towers still standing and visible for miles around as you approach the town.

From here it was a short hop to Siena and we once again were delighted with our hotel choice. It overlooked the countryside and had a beautiful private garden in the back. Unfortunately, it was a bit cold for breakfast on the patio. Our room was an attic room and it was huge. We had a dormer window with a little set of steps so you could climb up and peek out at the town from this rooftop perch. We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant, Antica Osteria da Divo, and made an evening of it. Starting with appetizers, we worked our way through the various courses to dessert. This was the actual day of my 50th birthday, after all! In Siena, we bought an all-inclusive pass to the museums, the Duomo, the Crypts, etc. We hit half of them the first day and the rest the following morning. Once again, you could climb the medieval tower for a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. I was beginning to feel that I had been working out on a Stairmaster for several days - this is a good thing!

From Siena, we made our way to the Umbrian town of Orvieto by way of Montalcino. Our main draw to Montalcino was the fact that it was the central area where the Brunello wine is made. Brunello di Montalcino is widely held to be the best wine in Italy so, of course, we wanted to visit the wineries and taste the wine. After exploring the town, another beautiful walled town on a hilltop, we took off for the Brunello Museum only to find it closed. Instead, we visited a nearly deserted nearby winery, took a look around and then headed to the tasting room for a sample. It is interesting to note that not all Brunello is created equally. Apparently, to be considered Brunello di Montalcino, you have to meet certain standards in terms of how the wine is produced and how long it is aged.

Next stop is Orvieto and this ended up being the perfect way to bring our wonderful week to a close. As we approached the town, we crested a hill and there in the valley was a sweeping landscape with a giant rock in the distance that had a beautiful old city perched right on top of it. It took our breath away and we had to pull off the road for pictures (although the pictures don't do it justice). Our hotel was called Agriturismo Cioccoleta and our hosts were a charming young couple named Angela and Allesandro. This was their home and they welcomed us like dear friends. It was absolutely charming. The rooms were airy and light and shared a communal living room and loft for relaxing and soaking in the amazing vineyards all around the property. It was all by itself in the countryside and Mike and I enjoyed a delightful walk through the vineyards after breakfast in the morning. Speaking of breakfast, Angela made the most delicious homemade cakes to start off the day. I should have insisted on the recipes! Reluctantly we left to go explore Orvieto before heading to Rome for our flight in the afternoon. I would definitely stay here again! Orvieto did not disappoint. Once again, I got a day worth of Stairmaster climbing. Incredible views, great shopping, a beautiful Duomo, museums...all spectacular.

We touched just the tip of the iceberg during our trip to Italy and it did make us want to return for more down the road. We loved our pace

and the places we took the time to explore. All good things must end and this time I am really looking forward because we are heading home to Arizona! It is true that home is where the heart is and my heart is with my family and friends. Our experiences during our time in England have been amazing and Mike has really enjoyed the people he works with here. They couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming to us. Hopefully, we will see them again, maybe in Arizona next time!

Amy Brought the Sunshine!

I have been anxiously waiting for Amy to come to visit us in England - a sight for sore eyes! I miss my family. I had her all to myself for a day and we used the time to catch up on all of her travels and the engagement story! She and Rick have been exchanging ideas about where and when they want to be married. It was fun to hear all of the options and weigh the pros and cons of each. It looks like the wedding will be September 2011 if they can arrange a venue then.

On the way home from the airport I did another stop at Windsor Castle. It is a nice "welcome to England" stop and breaks up the drive home after a long flight. Amy slept for 13 hours the first night so she must have needed the rest after supervising the movers packing her life away for the move to New York City! We finally set out around noon and visited the nearby medieval market town of Marlborough for lunch at Polly's Tea House. From there it was back to the airport to get Amy's friend, Court.

Court flew all the way from LA to spend time with Amy in London and it was fun to see her again! These girls have so much going on and have a great passion for life. Court is a registered dietician working at least two jobs and also getting her own business going in parallel. Amy starts work at a law firm, Fitzpatrick, in New York City on October 12 and was excited to get going on that. She visited her colleagues on her way through New York to London and saw that she already has an office with her name on the door - sweet!

Before they went to London they stayed with me for a couple nights and one glorious day. I took them to Castle Combe (the ideal wedding venue if you ask me) and then to Bath. It was a beautiful fall day and the leaves were changing so it was nice to be in the countryside. We finished the day at our favorite pub, Three Crowns. Amy and Court were adventurous and ordered a combination plate of kangaroo, ostrich, and crocodile. They also ate blue marlin. The menu at this place is extensive and it is always packed - a perfect send-off dinner before they hopped the train for London in the morning.

Mike and I went into the city on Saturday to meet them, since he hadn't been home all week to see Amy. We did some touring around the major sights and later met for dinner at Piccolino. This restaurant is tucked away on Heddon Street just off of Regent Street. It is a pedestrian road lined with restaurants and bars. We sat outside under a heater and it was delightful. Great music, twinkling lights, amazing food and the best company ever! At the end of the road was the Ice Bar that we have heard so much about, but we discovered that they only let in 30 at a time. You have to book your spot in advance so we had to settle for pictures by the door!

Both girls made it to their respective flights the next day and Amy is starting her new job this morning. I am excited for her. I know she misses Rick so much already - they will have lots of flights back and forth until they land in the same city!

Thanks for visiting me, baby. I miss you and can't wait to see you guys at Thanksgiving!

Cote d'Azur...A Warm, Sunny Change from England

I am definitely losing steam and falling behind on this travel blog. However, I am determined to finish out the month and at least capture our big trips!

Last week Mike had business in Nice, France for 9 days. I went along and enjoyed the lovely sunshine and beach weather for a change. I explored Vieille Ville (Old Town) while Mike sat in a conference room all day. I felt a tiny bit guilty but I got over it quickly and had a fabulous time! I love the narrow, cobbled streets filled with every kind of shop and eventually found myself in front of the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate. This beautiful old Cathedral was in the process of being adorned with fresh flowers for an event and smelled heavenly inside. Following my nose, I found my way to the flower market in the Cours Saleya and continued to wander this market area past wonderfully scented soaps, beautiful fresh produce, local art, fish right out of the ocean and more. I bought a few soaps and some berries before heading out onto the Promenade des Anglais to take in the views and put my feet in the ocean for a bit.

The challenge of getting into the ocean is that the rocks hurt my feet! The water is warm and the shale beach certainly makes for a cleaner beach experience (no sand in all the wrong places) but I still prefer softer sand. Regardless, it felt good to sit down, rest my feet and do some people watching before continuing to explore. I noticed a hill jutting out over the ocean directly west of Old Nice and saw people climbing a steep, long staircase to get up there. I decided that was my next stop and was rewarded with see forever views of the Mediterranean, Old Nice and the Port of Nice with its spectacular yachts and cruise ships. It turns out that a castle stood on this spot until the early 1700s and now it is called Parc du Chateau. There are green spaces, playgrounds, walking trails, a beautiful waterfall, Roman Ruins and cemeteries in the area now. I found a vendor selling baguettes with ham and cheese and ate my lunch on a rock overlooking the sea - heaven! I shopped my way back through town before heading back to our hotel to meet Mike later in the day. We had a fabulous french dinner at a restaurant right on the water to cap off a perfect day!

Mike took Friday off and we spent the weekend traveling from Italy to Cannes along the Cote d'Azur. My favorite town was Antibes. This place was charming, had great shopping, fabulous beaches, breathtaking sea walks and, of course, the Picasso Museum. Further along, we found Cannes to be teaming with people despite the fact that it was not film festival season. We spend quite a bit of time walking the harbor looking at the incredible yachts from all over the world. In contrast, we spent some time in Menton, close to Italy, and found the pace to be slower and less glamorous but no less charming. The beaches here are supposed to be a bit warmer but we could not tell the difference. On our way back from Menton we rented bicycles in Nice and rode along the Promenade des Anglais to St. Laurant du Var. It was another beautiful day and it felt good to ride along the sea and soak up the sunshine.

We learned that the first Sunday of every month is free at all museums in France so we took the opportunity to visit the Musee des Beaux-Arts, the Palais Massena and the Musee Chagall. I discovered a lot about Marc Chagall that I didn't know about his work and was really drawn in by it. He seems to have a passion for people and this particular collection displays biblical themes from the Old Testament using incredibly vibrant colors.

We enjoyed dinner with Mike's colleague and his girlfriend on Sunday night. They are from Paris and were able to find a local restaurant with regional cuisine that they helped us understand and order - yum! Monday I was on the first plane home to prepare for Amy's visit the next day, while Mike was headed to another week of meetings. Time is flying by and we will be heading home before we know it...

Turkish Rugs Anyone?



After several months away from family and friends, we were thrilled to meet good friends in Istanbul last weekend. We met up with Joe and Lindsey at Heathrow for the flight to Istanbul where John and Lynette were waiting (or rather, sleeping). It was fantastic to catch up over breakfast on everyone's busy summers and hear about their families.

The breakfast room of our hotel was our first pleasant surprise. It was on the top floor surrounded by windows and a nice patio with a panoramic view of the Marmara Sea. We decided to familiarize ourselves with the area by walking through Sultanahmet. Shopping and markets were everywhere and the locals made sure that you knew about their shop as you walked by. We fell for a nice guy that somehow managed to reroute us to a leather outlet before realizing that we were not going to purchase anything!

As we walked through the area we passed the Hagia Sophia museum and the Blue Mosque before heading over to the Grand Bazaar. Textiles were sold in virtually every shop and I did haggle for some scarves. I thought I did well and was pleased with my price but John was pretty convinced that I could have done better! I have to say that, in my opinion, the Grand Bazaar was overwhelming. I find it hard to even browse when there is always someone at your side looking for the best way to take your money. After a delicious wrap that was similar to a gyro, we wandered over to the Spice Bazaar. Here we learned about the well-known apple tea and sampled others including pomegranate tea. I bought both! We also sampled a variety of Turkish Delight (candy) and purchased some nuts for our evening happy hour. Not really a cook, I steered clear of purchasing spices since I wouldn't even know how to best use them but piles of the colorful spices were everywhere.

Onward over the Galata Bridge to the Galata Tower. By the time we climbed up this hill, it was hot and our feet were tired. Joe spotted a rooftop patio that turned out to be the perfect spot to cool off with a beer and our recently purchased nuts. We had a fantastic view from here - almost as high as the tower itself. You know I am a bit claustrophobic so getting across the water in the bridge-tunnel made me feel like all 18 million people of Istanbul must be trying to cross with us - so crowded! Another tip, don't expect to find very many public restrooms so lay off the water ;)

It was a hot day and we were all tempted by the ice cream vendors but couldn't get past the fact that they were swinging it around like pizza dough to get your attention and it didn't melt or fall apart. It looked more like cold taffy. Instead, we shopped our way back to the hotel for a shower before our happy hour on the patio and dinner at a nearby Turkish restaurant. Joe came close to purchasing a Kilim Carpet for their dining room but in the end, it wasn't meant to be.

Sunday we toured the Topkapi Palace with its many courtyards and collections. I particularly enjoyed the imperial costumes and the treasury housing the many jeweled treasures of the Sultans including an 86-carat diamond. We also toured the palace Harem, the residence of the Sultan's wives, concubines, and children. At one time there were 1,000 concubines in the Harem competing for the Sultan's favor. They were guarded by black slave eunuchs. The only other men permitted to enter were the sultan and his sons. The audio tour gave us a glimpse of life in the Harem.

After lunch, we also visited the Hagia Sophia Museum. It was fascinating to discover the history of this building that was once a Christian Church inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537. The beautiful Byzantine mosaics were covered over when the Ottomans converted it into a mosque in the 15th century but some survived and can be viewed throughout. It is an interesting contrast to see the Christian elements together with the Muslim features.

The heat took its toll and we headed under the canopy of a sidewalk cafe for refreshments. In the process, the troops got curious about the water pipes and we ended up with an apple-flavored water pipe at our table. Everyone agreed that there wasn't much to it but it was fun watching them blow the steam out of their nose!

Our last stop of the day was the famous Blue Mosque. Mike picked up a new friend as we walked in that proceeded to escort him through the entire process in the hopes that he would visit his carpet shop in return. We all know how that ended for him - no carpet sale! We had to rush through this visit because the prayers were about to begin and all non-muslims had to be out. We took off our shoes, covered our heads and did a quick walkthrough of the main space. I would have like to take more time to understand more about Islam. We did notice that the mosques throughout the city had a wall of faucets and stone seats outside where the men would perform their cleansing ritual before prayers. The call to prayer could be heard 5 times a day.

Dinner on Sunday night was spectacular! As we wandered the neighborhood near our hotel, Joe asked for a recommendation and it was spot on. You would never find it on your own because we didn't walk through the best area to get there but suddenly we found ourselves on a beautiful patio in a brick courtyard with lovely tables, lights, and service. We ordered a variety of starters followed by several different kinds of grilled fish - delicious! The weather was perfect and it was so nice to share this with fantastic friends.

Monday was our last full day and we all agreed that it was time for a cruise up the Bosphorus. While waiting for the boat tour to begin we toured the Basilica Cistern, a large cavern holding water and supported by 336 columns. Two of the columns sit on Medusa head bases that are supposed to be a shrine to the water nymphs. The Bosphorus is the straight that separates Istanbul between Asia and Europe. It is the only city in the world that is situated across two continents. The Bosphorus connects the Marmara Sea with the Black Sea making it an important passage. We took a small tour boat that went up the European side pointing out important palaces, resort locations, and high-end villages. We passed under two intercontinental bridges before turning around and returning along the Asian side with its beautiful and EXPENSIVE waterfront homes, many in the Ottoman style. The Ottomans had large families and the homes were made of wood which was best for the damp weather and frequent earthquakes. There was also an important palace on the Asian side but it was being renovated and was covered from view. The weather on the Asian side was cooler. Our tour up the Bosphorus also included a bus ride to the Golden Horn for a view of the city. Unfortunately, I was singled out at the lookout spot by a huge pigeon. He left me a present right on my shoulder and the experience was very disturbing - yuk!! I was told that Turks are very superstitious and believed that this was a sign of good luck. They encouraged me to buy a lottery ticket...I guess there is a silver lining with every load of crap that comes your way.

We wrapped up our last night in Istanbul with another good Turkish dinner and plenty of wine. Joe, Lindsey, Lynette, and John were headed to Budapest in the morning and we were heading back to London. Honestly, I was as happy to see them as I was to see Istanbul. I realize what an amazing gift it is to have a wonderful family and good friends to go through life with and look forward to heading home at the end of October to reconnect with everyone! 

Quick trip through Normandy

We picked up a rental car by our hotel in Paris and programmed our GPS for Rouen via Giverny. I love Claude Monet and really enjoyed seeing the gardens that inspired so many of his paintings. We tried to capture the essence of the weeping willow trees, lily pads and bridges that are reflected in his paintings with our little canon camera but somehow I think we lost something in translation! We spent some time in the museum and also toured Claude Monet's house before continuing on down the road to Rouen.

Rouen is the capital of northern Normandy. The Notre Dame Cathedral at the center of town is extremely old with origins dating back as early as the 4th century. This huge gothic cathedral has been destroyed and rebuilt over the years due to damage from wars, among other things. It looks like a giant drippy sandcastle and has been painted many times by Claude Monet.

Our hotel in Rouen was an experiment in saving money. On the plus side, it looked out on the cathedral and had a decent breakfast. On the minus side, the bells rang several times per hour and the only furnishings were a wobbly small desk with a small, straight back chair and the bed. It was spartan, but clean and worked for one night. We walked from the hotel to the Place du Vieux Marche, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Along the way, we walked down a charming street lined with shopping, and under an arch supporting an astronomical clock. It is not quite as complex as the one in Prague but very unique.

To round out our exploration of Rouen we walked the other direction from the Cathedral to an area called Place Saint-Mark. This is a pedestrian area with lots of restaurants. We found a nice spot with a great patio and sat down with a bottle of wine to enjoy the evening. We just happened to be seated right next to a couple of really nice guys from England that struck up a conversation with us. Given that we have been a bit socially deprived over here, we really enjoyed the interaction and got lots of good tips for making the most of our last month in England!

From Rouen, we set our sites on Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. This turned out to be a really moving experience for me. We spent lots of time in the exhibit before wandering through the cemetery, pausing at the memorials. It is hard to imagine the courage it took those soldier to get off those boats. It is also amazing the amount of training and preparation that went into this important effort to liberate France and ultimately the rest of Europe. I can't even fathom what a different world this would be without that united effort by so many.

We also visited Arromanches les Bains at Gold Beach and went through the exhibit that details the extremely elaborate floating military bases created there. It was crazy how much engineering went into designing breakwaters to create a harbor that could supply the Allied war effort in France. This harbor was built in England, hidden in the English channel and then pulled across the water to be reassembled at Gold Beach. Originally there were to be two such harbors but one was severely damaged by storms on the journey to France. Supply ships with items as big as tanks arrived daily to dock with this floating base and unload everything needed to sustain the troops. The supplies were carried to shore using floating bridges as well as amphibious craft. Winston Churchill dreamt this up and it was apparently the key to success in Normandy.

Another must-see town in the northern Normandy region is Bayeux, famous for its historic tapestry that tells the story of the Norman conquest of England. It is actually an embroidered cloth that is 1 1/2 feet tall and about 224 feet long. This was a fun way to pick up a history lesson! We enjoyed the charming main street for shopping, had a quick look around the romanesque cathedral and stopped for lunch at an outdoor cafe before hitting the road again.

Getting back to the airport on Sunday night was an experience. Our trusty GPS definitely didn't choose to use the freeways and we ended up on very small roads that backed up in many of the small towns along the way. We were wondering if we would make it in time for our flight, but all's well that ends well. We are home now. Lots of driving but a good experience...

Paris and some BIG NEWS!!!

Having been to Paris before, I did not anticipate the powerful reaction I would have to seeing it again upon arrival. This time I arrived at night in the back of a taxi and, as we came into view of all the recognizable landmarks, I was awestruck by the beauty of the well-lit city. On the freeway coming from Charles de Gaulle airport, I caught a glimpse of Sacre Coeur lit up on the hill at Montmartre. It was like a beacon watching over the city. As we wound our way through the narrow streets in search of the hotel, the cab driver had to laugh at me in the back of the taxi as I made appreciative gestures and sounds everywhere we went...Eiffel Tower, Arch de Triomphe, Charles de Gaulle l'Etoile, Champs-Elysees, the many bridges along the Seine...I couldn't wait to get out and explore the next day!

I have to pause for a minute to say that getting to Paris did not go exactly as planned. Mike made it all the way to Heathrow (over an hour from our flat) and realized as we parked that he was missing his briefcase containing his laptop and passport! He had grabbed the trash and, with his hands full, had not noticed that he was missing a bag. As it turned out, I went on ahead to Paris and he had to reschedule for the first flight out the next morning and go straight to his meetings. He made it with no time to spare and all is well but he is NOT happy with himself. I cannot point a finger here because I know I have left behind a purse on occasion when my hands are full!

My plan had been to spend the day in the Louvre but it was such a beautiful day that I couldn't bear to be indoors. Instead, I took the metro to the center of Paris and began a walking tour that took me by the Opera house, past some great shops, to the Place de l'Etoile for a view down the Champs-Elysees. From there I entered the Garden of the Tuileries and pulled up a reclining chair by the fountain to watch the world go by for a while. The Tuileries Garden took me right up to the Louvre for some pictures and a stroll through the courtyards before exiting at the other end.

Next stop, Sainte-Chapelle for a look at the beautiful windows and then on past Notre Dame before crossing the river again to walk past The Hotel deVille, housing the administration buildings of Paris. Now my feet hurt so it was time to do some shopping with a purpose - socks! With that settled, the next order of business was food. By the time I emerged from the shopping centre, my sunshine was gone and I continued on in the rain, but just for a while. From the Palais Royal, I hopped on a city bus that took me north to Montmartre to see Sacre Coeur up close and appreciate the view of Paris from up there. After snapping lots of pictures and working my way down the hill through crowds of people, I found the nearest metro stop and called it a day.

Time to meet Mike at the hotel and get dinner. And what a dinner it turned out to be! Right as our main course was being served my cell phone rang. Clearly, I don't get many calls over here on my cell phone so I knew it was one of the kids and picked up right away. It was Amy and Rick with the news that he had proposed to her - sooooo exciting!! Rick proposed to Amy in a vineyard they discovered between San Sebastian and Barcelona in Spain - how romantic! Apparently he had planned to propose in Venice on a gondola ride but he couldn't wait - even more romantic! He dropped to his knee twice and the second time the proposal followed. I guess the first time Amy was distracted with the scenery and threw off his timing so he pretended to be posing for a picture instead - love it! I asked for a picture of the ring and it is a beauty! He did a great job and we are excited to welcome him into our family.

There was no sleeping for me that night! Megan called and then posted her congratulations to facebook. I was amazed at how fast the news spread. It was fun watching all the well wishes roll in...so many wonderful friends and relatives out there giving love and support!

Swindon is Still Unfolding Some Surprises...

This weekend we stayed close to home so it was a good opportunity to find out a little more about Swindon.

After a challenging spin class, we returned home to find that our flat had been evacuated in order to spray for moths. The bottom line: we needed to stay outside for the next two hours. It was fast approaching lunchtime and we were definitely still a bit soggy from the work out so we were happy to discover a new sandwich spot with outdoor seating called Gusto. After filling up on delicious and original paninis, we still had time to kill so we walked across the street to the Swindon Museum. Mike had been bugging me to go in this building since May so why not now? It was free and basically just contained some information about the history of the town along with a gallery of some artwork. The whole tour took maybe 30 minutes. Enough said.

After a quick shower, we got back to our original plan for the day and headed to Kelmscott Manor, the country home of William Morris. It is only about 15 or 20 minutes away and is situated near the river Thames. I enjoyed learning about the many interests of Morris; designer, craftsman, poet, etc. His company produced furniture, textiles, wallpapers and stained glass and his love of the countryside is reflected in his designs ad poetry. The manor house displays many tapestries and other works of art that Morris himself worked on. We wrapped up the afternoon with a stroll down the country lane to the river. Very peaceful.

Today we continued our Swindon education by heading to STEAM, the Museum of the Great Western Railway. Now this was more like it. Swindon's history and growth are directly tied to the development and success of the Great Western Railway. Many of the most advanced steam engines in the world were produced in Swindon and a whole town formed around this industry. The museum has collections of machinery, supplies, furnishings, models and more. There are also exhibits of the various workshops as well as finished steam engines and passenger cars that you can walk through. I have been shopping in the Swindon Brunel center but never realized who Brunel was. I learned that Brunel was actually a very forward-thinking engineer who was the driving force behind the Great Western Railway. This seems like a great place for families with lots of hands-on opportunities for kids and adults alike. There is a portion of the experience dedicated to the role women played in the GWR during the war. I was surprised to like this as much as I did!

A Weekend in Cornwall Has My Vote!

After all of the rain and clouds we have had for the last few weeks, our weekend trip to St. Mawes along the Cornish Coast was restorative. Sunny, blue skies, light winds, and comfortable temperatures were ideal for exploring some of the most spectacular coastlines I have ever seen. I was in hiking heaven!

St. Mawes is a quaint little fishing village along the Channel coast of Cornwall. We were lucky to find accommodation at The Rising Sun given that this was the last bank holiday weekend of the summer and the Brits were making the most of it. This little inn turned out to be the perfect base for a relaxing weekend retreat - charming, spacious, unique and good food to top it off! This town is not easy to get to so, despite the holiday, the town did not feel overly crowded. It isn't somewhere you would drive to just for the day. The visitors either had a home here or parked in the town car park and never moved the car. You could wander down the middle of the narrow streets along the water's edge or high up on the hills overlooking the bay.

One of the striking things about this area is the huge tide swings. When we arrived at 6:30 pm the kids in town were all jumping off the high sea wall into the bay quite far below. They were having a ball! The next day, however, the tide was out revealing a beach and quite a few boats just sitting on the sand where they had previously been anchored. Instead of jumping off the wall, the kids were now collecting crabs from the shallow waters near the beach and on the boat ramps.

We were also pleasantly surprised to find a small castle built by King Henry VIII in St. Mawes. It sat perched upon the hill by the entrance to the bay. There was another castle across the Fal estuary in the town of Falmouth, also built by King Henry VIII. Both served to protect one of the world's largest natural harbors against the threat of invasion from Catholic France and Spain. Today the St. Mawes Castle is closed on Saturdays for weddings and other events but otherwise is open to the public.

Saturday we took off along the wide Fal estuary to walk into the town of St. Just in Roseland. Along the way, we saw graceful homes overlooking the water, watched the sailboats, walked through cow pastures along the water's edge and climbed down the bluffs to the rocky beaches below. Once in St. Just, we explored the church, surrounding cemetery and gardens before heading back - spectacular! We passed a few people along the path but most of the time we were all by ourselves in this natural wonderland and loving it.

Sunday we caught a ferry across the bay to the Roseland Peninsula, which is largely uninhabited for miles. The little boat dropped us off at a small floating dock, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. We picked up the trail and headed around the shoreline to St. Anthony's Head. The headland offered unbelievable views of the harbor entrance. From here we continued on around to the outer cliffs and beaches of the coastal path, passing the lighthouse along the way. The terrain reminded me of the Irish coast as we walked along the rim through pastures of cows, horses, sheep and even through wheat fields. 

In places, the way the trees grew reminded us of the California coast - maybe Big Sur. They weren't cypress trees but the shape was similar. In a few spots, you could see secluded beaches far below between the rocks. Some of the beaches we could climb down to from the trail but others were only accessible from the water and occasionally we would see a sailboat anchored there enjoying the solitude. We easily walked 10 miles on Sunday and climbed countless hills because we just couldn't turn back. Around every corner was another spectacular view. We did manage to find the little dock at Place House just in time to make it back before the last ferry of the day. The trails could be marked a little better for those of us not accustomed to climbing over fences and traipsing through fields to get where we are going but we did get help along the way from some friendly locals at a tea shop.

Monday we checked out of the hotel and decided to drive across Cornwall to ride our bikes along the Camel Trail from Wadebridge to Padstow and back. This bike path is flat and follows the Camel Estuary to the ocean. As we road out, we watched water skiers enjoying the day in the calm waters of the estuary. Surprisingly, as we rode back the tide was out and that same spot was now a dry river bed! Padstow itself is a very popular fishing village and it is charming. Granted, it was chock full of people enjoying the holiday but beautiful nonetheless. We walked past the town and down to the beach. We enjoyed getting our feet in the water and walking along the soft, sandy beach. People were everywhere enjoying the sunshine and, once again, it really lifted my spirits to be there. We had lunch on a patio just off the beaten track before cycling back to Wadebridge to drive home to Swindon.

I highly recommend Cornwall for the spectacular scenery, relaxed pace and incredible hiking. If you are a sailor or a fisherman, all the better!

Side note: Mike is a closet cat lover - he let this cat jump up next to him and drink the milk for our tea out of the pitcher!

Rain, Rain, Go Away...

We are getting a taste of the ever-present UK rain that we have heard so much about. Almost every day for the past month we have had drizzle for some or all of the day. Some days the blue sky and sunshine come out and tease you into believing that it is here to stay. New rule…never leave home without an umbrella!

As we count down to our departure day of October 29, I am looking forward to several more international trips before we go. I feel a bit like a travel agent lately as we try to nail down accommodations and transportation for short trips to Cornwall, Istanbul, Paris, Caen/Normandy, Nice, Cinque Terre and our longer Italian vacation in October. We are both really looking forward to touring Istanbul with John, Lynette, Joe, and Lindsey and also to Amy’s visit to see us here in England. The time away from family and friends is the hardest part of an international stint like this. Keeping busy with travel is awesome but nothing replaces relationships - shout out to my amazing Megan for holding down the fort at home and keeping me company on skype when I need it!

We are keeping our fingers crossed for a bit more summer weather this weekend as we pack up the bicycles and head out to explore Cornwall and Devon. It is a bank holiday for the UK so we are expecting to see lots of travelers on the road for the last 3-day weekend before school starts again. I am sure all of you Arizonian’s will be heading out to cooler climates for the Labor Day weekend so be safe and enjoy!

Forever Views...Cycling the Ridgeway Trail

Making the most of the long summer days, we packed up the bicycles after work and drove over to Barbury Castle to give the Ridgeway Trail a try. Barbury Castle is a scenic country park sitting high in the Marlborough Downs. Just getting there is interesting because the country road that leads up there narrows to one lane, forcing a game of chicken with any oncoming vehicle.

We worked our way through the first two livestock gates and I started to wonder if this was a better horse trail than cycle path. In fact, it serves as a horse trail, walking path and cycle route. After the first steep and rocky downhill, the path leveled out a bit and I noticed a red, curly-haired cow watching me as a rode by. It felt like there was no one around for miles and the incredible views in every direction were definitely distracting me from the hills that I was NOT used to! Mike was riding circles around me and only turned around when his stomach started growling.

Tomorrow we are starting golf lessons offered through the Intel Swindon Social Club....hmmmm.

Castle Combe. Idyllic...

Today I went out in search of the charming images on my box of notecards. According to the photographer's notes, it was nearby and I had to see for myself if such a place actually existed. I am here to tell you that Castle Combe is probably the most charming little village I have seen since arriving here!

It is in the countryside right on the border of Wiltshire and the Cotswold's. I parked just outside of town and walked along a shaded country road with very little traffic for about 10 minutes before reaching the charming village. My camera was immediately put into service. The cottages had so much character with flowers hanging from the stone windows, the occasional thatched roof, well-worn doors, and welcoming gardens. In the center of town, you are greeted by the Market Cross, a covered gazebo-like structure in the middle of the main intersection offering large stone benches perfect for an afternoon ice cream cone. Across the street is St. Andrews Church, originally built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries.

Tucked away behind the church, down a quiet lane lined with stone houses and well-tended gardens, I came upon The Manor House Hotel. Suddenly the lane opens up to the expansive grounds and you can immediately feel the elegance and tranquility of this place. The building is covered in Ivy and the surrounding lawns have giant trees with benches underneath, tables and chairs for taking tea on a nice day, lawn chess and well placed reclining chairs out by the stream. Up a flight of stairs, in front of The Manor House, is a formal garden that overlooks the grounds and leads to a walking trail through the woods. Apparently, this is a golf club. I did not see the course but maybe that will get Mike to take me back one of these days!

I reluctantly left the grounds and completed my exploration of the town before heading back up the hill to retrieve the car and get back to reality. After several weeks of overcast skies and rain, the clear blue sky and sunshine today was a welcome sight!

Lawn Tennis and Royal Staterooms - Does it get more British than that?

When we first arrived in London we felt that we would NEVER attempt to drive in central London. Well, we gave it a go after dropping mom at Heathrow yesterday and were pleasantly surprised. Maybe the downpour discouraged the usual weekend traffic but the weather cleared up for the most part and we even found free parking everywhere we went!

First stop, Wimbledon All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club. That's a mouthful! This turned out to be a really fantastic tour followed by an interesting trip through the Wimbledon Tennis Museum. The grounds are beautiful and it was fun to go in all of the show courts and the press room and sit as if we were attending the big event. The brackets were still posted from the recent tournament, which was fun to see since we watched it. Megan told us this was worth doing and she was right - thanks, Megs!

Then it was on to Buckingham Palace to tour the Royal Staterooms and gardens, which are only open while the Queen is in residence in Scotland during August and September. The drive from Wimbledon to Buckingham took us through some very nice areas. I can only imagine what some of that real estate sells for! While we were waiting at a traffic light in the circular drive around the front of Buckingham Palace, we rolled down our car window and talked to a cab driver. He told us to try looking for parking in the neighborhood just south of the palace because some of those spaces are free on the weekends. BINGO - we got lucky and were set for the rest of the day.

With tickets to the 3:30 tour in hand, we set off towards the palace to begin. Buckingham Palace is incredibly opulent with ornate, gilded ceilings and HUGE crystal chandeliers in every room. I have decided that I prefer to tour the working castles and palaces. You can just imagine what it would be like to attend an event there. Just as we completed the indoor tour the rain resumed for our walk through the garden. I guess that is what umbrellas are for and it didn't last too long.

To kill time before dinner we opted to walk through St. James Park, new to both of us, and then on past The Guard Museum, Churchill War Rooms, Big, Ben, Parliament and Westminster Abbey. That worked up an appetite that led us to an Italian restaurant called Zizzi. I thoroughly enjoyed a wood-fired pizza that measured up to what you would find in the states (I am not generally a big fan of the pizza here). After all of the walking, we didn't mind getting in the car for the hour and a half drive home.

We spent some time today planning our next few trips and quickly realizing that we waited too long before booking our Cornwall hotels on the upcoming Bank Holiday weekend! The search is on...

Edinburgh and the Highlands in 3 Days - Yikes!

Wrap up in your Tartan wool and grab a wee bit of single malt whiskey to sip while you eat your Scottish shortbread. You are in for some fun in Scotland!

Upon our arrival at Waverly Station in Edinburgh, we were quite impressed by the skyline of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh as seen from Princes Street. The Edinburgh Castle dominates this and appears to be carved right out of the rock that it sits on. Princes Street divides the city into the new town and the old town. All along Princes Street, there is a beautiful park and, given that it is Festival Time in Edinburgh, there are people and entertainers EVERYWHERE. Apparently, the Edinburgh Festival is the largest in the world with over 2,000 venues for the arts, a spectacular Military Tattoo outside the castle and a fringe festival of street performers.

Mom opted for a double-decker bus tour of the city to save her back from walking the hills so Mike and I set off to walk up to the castle and down the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the Queen. Along the way, we saw some pretty questionable street performers along with troops of actors and musicians strolling the street singing, dancing and generally promoting their festival venue.

When we arrived at the Palace of Holyrood we were lucky to walk in just as the Queen's husband, Phillip, was walking out the door to get in the car. The rest of the royal family is now at Balmoral but he was in town for some business and an evening event in Edinburgh. They are in Edinburgh during the month of July. As with Windsor Castle, this is a working Palace and the tour was very good. My favorite part is the Abbey ruins connected to the Palace. The beautiful stonework still stands against the sky with beautiful arches, columns, and windows despite the missing roof and partial walls. We strolled through the inside and then approached from the gardens just as the sun came out, setting it off against the blue sky and surrounding mountains.

We had been told that if it was a clear day we should hike to Arthurs Seat at the top of Holyrood Park so we set off with a bottle of water and several layers for the unpredictable weather. The view as you walk through this beautiful park is spectacular and, as you climb, you get a 360-degree view of the city, the ocean, and surrounding countryside. It wouldn't be a proper Scottish hike if it hadn't started raining halfway up. At least the torrential downpours waited until we were most of the way back down! After dinner, Mike hopped the bus to the airport and we got ready for an early start the next morning. We were heading to Glencoe, Loch Ness and the Highlands - Minibus tour lasting 12 hours! What are you going to do if you want to see a lot of territory in such a short time?

Our highlands guide was fantastic and I am sure she is an aspiring actress because she told the old stories of the clans and royal battles with such intensity and emotion that I was captivated. The Scots do have their share of bloody battles throughout history. She gave us the true identity of their Brave Heart. It was not William Wallace, as portrayed by Mel Gibson in the movie. The fight for freedom was, in fact, picked up by Robert the Bruce. He was eventually crowned King of Scotland and known to them as one of their greatest kings and most famous warriors. We also got lots of stories about Mary Queen of Scots as well as a warning never to trust a Campbell - ask me about that sometime! All in all, the scenery along the way was spectacular and the pictures will never do it justice. The mist is almost always clinging to the lush green hills and the lochs are beautiful. I hate to admit that we took a boat ride on Loch Ness and fed the Nessie legend by watching the boat sonar for signs of something large lurking beneath the surface. We did learn that the northern part of Scotland was once part of Canada before breaking off, floating for eons and eventually slamming into the UK creating the incredible terrain and the many lochs. Crazy! Loch Ness is deeper than their Ocean and black as the darkest night from all the peat in the water washing in off the soil.

With one more day to spend in Edinburgh, we set off early on Wednesday and were lucky to beat the crowds into the Castle to view the Crown Jewels and the rest of the Castle exhibits. We particularly liked visiting the prison. It was set up with the cots and hammocks that would have been in there when it was full of prisoners of war. The conditions were crowded and deplorable for the multinational prisoners housed within. We spent more time than we probably needed to in the War Museum because it was pouring rain outside! By the time we worked our way through the streets and buildings of the Edinburgh Castle, the sun was out briefly and we watched street performers on the Royal Mile and did some souvenir shopping. Somewhere along the way we tasted the Whiskey, ate the shortbread and bought items from St. Andrews Golf Course.

It was a quick trip and we covered lots of ground - so fun! If I return to Scotland, the Isle of Skye is at the top of my list. Maybe we can rent one of the charming medieval gatehouses that we saw throughout the highlands now used for that purpose. I have mom here for just two more days so we will stay close to home and hit a couple of our charming towns nearby for shopping and maybe lunch. I am so glad she came to visit. I miss being able to spend that kind of time with her. Safe travels, Mom!